Falling in Love with La Ville-Lumière; Paris, France

The beautiful Fall colors in France in the Tuileries

My friend Jessica and I left for Paris in the afternoon of November 16^th.  We had no idea what to expect- which is probably a good thing, because that’s what traveling is all about, a little bit of spice and dash of spontaneity.  And we definitely got all of that and more in our three days in this city famously known as the “city of lights, or in the country’s native tongue, "La Ville-Lumière."

Paris originally gets its name as the city of lights because it was the birthplace of the Age of Enlightenment and was revered as one of the greatest centers of education and ideas.  Though the fact the city was the first in Europe to adopt street lighting may have contributed to the factor, its name was born upon the success of some of its greatest thinkers and philosophers such as Voltaire and Jean-Jacques Rousseau. So, by the book the quote takes on a more figurative translation, though I personally enjoyed seeing Paris as “the city of lights” for its more illuminescent qualities.  From the sparkling Eiffel Tower that stood proudly against the night sky to the carousels scattered at every corner lazily lighting up children’s parks and tourist destinations, Paris definitely dazzled its way right into my heart.

Living up to its name,  La Ville de l'amour

Outside of Paris being simply La Ville-Lumière, Paris has also been quite popularly noted as La Ville de l'amour, or as you might have already guessed, the city of love.  And once you visit the city, you really need no explanation why if you just take a look around.  Even getting onto the plane Jessica and I noticed several honeymoon couples.  Either hand in hand, a head resting on a shoulder, or a quiet smile acknowledging the window of shared experiences, Paris earned its nickname for me right away.  And once arriving in the city of love, my blurred understanding of the name became crystal clear, as the atmospheric existence almost seemed to beckon romance. From lovers on picnic benches melting in eachothers arms to a passionate midnight kiss at the base of the glistening Eiffel Tower, its impossible to not be intrigued by the romance waiting at every street corner.

And if you need more reasons to call Paris La Ville de l'amour, bring somebody special for yourself so you can understand first hand just exactly what they mean. From the three kisses it takes two lovers as they throw the key into the Seine River from the padlock that they just securely latched on the bridge of the Pont des Arts to the Bateaux-Mouches gently glistening against the softly curving Seine River, there is not a moment you would be able to escape without experiencing some sort of blissful romance. And one more thing… let us not forget French, accurately known as the language of love, definitely sounds sweet, especially against the lips of a young man who you strike up conversation with at the base of the Eiffel tower.  But that’s another story, so we can save that for another time.

A little girl finds joy in the simple things in life, like giant bubbles

But outside of this, you have to make sure to also pay attention to all the other little things.  From the smiles to the eager existence of the locals hoping to strike up conversation, to the calming patience of the metro riders, to the lingering mystery in the cold evening air, it was a collage of small instances that defined my overall experience.  Just walking down the street, and noticing the symmetry everywhere was spectacular in and of itself.  The precision and the perfection noted from the perfectly straight alignment of trees of the Tuilerie Gardens to the eight streets perfectly leading out from the Arc de Triomphe, everywhere I felt like I was wandering a labyrinth that had been perfectly designed and planned out. 

A Bateaux-Mouches passes by the Cathedral of Notre Dame

But let us not forget that the design of the city didn’t happen by accident, it was a complete reflection of the monarchy that ruled over France since the 16^th century.  In the 3-hour walking tour that Jessica and I took around Paris during our first day, I really got a true sense of the history that built this amazing city, and the stories behind each and every monument that we passed by.  From the Arc de Triomphe, commissioned by the Emperor Napoleon to honor the victims of the Napoleonic wars to the 3,300 year old Egyptian Obelisk brought by Napoleon in the year of 1860 in the hope to put France at ease after the troubled Revolution era, I really was able to get to know the city on an entirely new level.   The highlights of the tour though was definitely Cathedral of Notre Dame, the best example of Gothic Architecture that took 200 years to build and the snippets of history our guide shared about King Henry IV. King Henry IV was probably the most hated of the rulers of France, most likely because he was trying to rule with a Protestant crown where 80 percent of the population was Catholic.  He was hated so much, there were 27 attempts to kill him, and with only the last one only being successful.  After he was stabbed in the stomach by a fanatical Catholic, François Ravaillac, the last words he muttered were, “Is that all you can do?” which prompted Ravaillac to stab the king in the heart, promptly ending his life.

The Pont des Arts leading up to the French Institute

We also passed by a number of the 150 museums that reside in the city, each of them built with beautiful architecture and design.  L’Institut de France, or, the French Institute, was one place though that especially stood out to me.  In the institute there are five academies, the oldest being the French academy consisting of 40 members known as immortals, each of whom stake their place in the institute until the can be replaced only after their death (hence the name, immortals).  It is these people that protect the French language, and are charged with the weight of producing the language’s official dictionary.  Whenever a new English word is pronounced, the congregation carefully chooses a French synonym or; for a word such as iPod, they choose whether it shall be masculine or feminine.  I thought it was interesting when they tried to come up with a word for “weekend” in French because there were no French synonyms.  So they came up with the word “vacancielle,” though none of the French adopted the word and simply continued to just use the word “weekend”. 

Love padlocks covering every inch of the Pont des Arts

And as I said earlier, we passed over the Pont des Arts, which is covered in an extreme amount of “love padlocks”.  The tradition is to latch the lock on the bridge kiss three times, then throw the key into the Seine river, sealing the couple’s everlasting love.  The tradition became hugely popular after the locations debut in final episode of Sex and the City.  What I found most entertaining though was the combination locks that I found sporadically latched onto parts of the bridge.  The idea just didn’t completely make sense if there was not key to throw in the river … I could just imagine someone returning in rage or sorrow undoing the lock and throwing that instead of a key into the river. 

Inside the Louvre, beneath one of the 5 pyramids

During our tour, we also passed by the Louvre, which was originally part of a fortress wall that protected the city from invasions.  King Louis XIV actually lived there, until he moved to Versailles a short time later.  It is home a mixture of architecture and 35,000 pieces of art.  In the courtyard of the Louvre there are 5 pyramids, with the 5^th one being underground which is at the center of the underground shopping mall just west of the Louvre.  I honestly didn’t realize how utterly gigantic the Louvre was until Jessica and I wandered the museum/gallery for a few hours the day before we left.  There are 4 flours in total, and you can literally get lost trying to find your place from one area to another.  It was definitely put together beautifully though, with each section dedicated to a certain culture or a part of history.  My favorite was definitely the Napoleon Apartments, which were elaborately adorned with the decorations, and furniture that defined the livelihood of Napoleon Bonaparte’s lavish life while he lived there for several years. 

The decadence of the Dining Room in Napoleon's Apartments

During our free time Jessica and I had fun exploring the city and taking the maze of metros that basically curved and etched their way throughout the entire city.  Though they were pretty easy to figure out, I wasn’t the best navigator so I definitely kept my collection of maps near me at all times.  We discovered the Christmas markets that they set up along the Champs-Elysées, so we perused through them snacking on warm Nutella crepes and the occasional perfectly crisp croissant (yes, French croissants do deserve their fame).  Though I wanted to try frog legs and the famous French Onion Soup, we ran out of evening meals to spare for such suppers.  But one day I got to try the famous bread with the melted cheese and egg on top made complete with spinach on the side.  It was quite delicious, though I much preferred the sweets that I tried over the course of our three days.  Like I said, the crescents were indeed delicious, so much so that sense then I haven’t had the appetite to snack on another one back here in Italy.   

The Eiffel Tower standing proud

With one of our free afternoons we decided to stake out and look for the Eiffel tower, which proved almost to be slightly difficult until we saw it proudly peaking behind the thick curtain of fog that loomed in the city that afternoon.  So without really looking at our map, we just walked and walked until there we were, right at the base of the Eiffel Tower.  And oh man, there was just no words to describe the height and size of that magnificent structure.  I honestly hadn’t realized how gigantic it truly was, not only height, but also the width of each of the legs that held it up, which hosted mazes of stairs, elevators, and even restaurants.  Though we really wanted to climb it, the stairs closed when we arrived, and the view wouldn’t have been great with the thick layer of fog.

The tower was truly magical how it lit up the night sky the way it did, and about every hour the entire thing would literally glitter, with the 20,000 light bulbs sporadically being turned on an off.  Actually, during one of the instances it occurred, I was standing at the base, just admiring how it lit up the night sky, until suddenly, at once, the entire tower began to sparkle.  And in that moment, the entire crowd softly gasped in awe, just smiling in amazement at the magic of the whole experience.  I couldn’t help but to be filled with such a warmth and happiness in that moment, just taking in all the sights and sounds of that cold November evening.  From the tower to the twinkling eyes of the passersby, the smell of warm crepes and children bundled in mittens and fur, everything about that evening was priceless. 

In Versailles, with the Grand Canal behind me

Though Jessica and I only were able to stay in Paris for a period of 3 short days, I was determined to go the Versailles, because I just couldn’t imagine anything better than being able to see with my very own eyes one of the most beautiful palaces and gardens in the entire world.  So on Sunday, I went with the same tour group, Sandeman, and caught a train with the group to Versailles.  It only took about a half hour to get there, but the trip lasted all day, though I enjoyed every moment.  Our tour guide took us around the gardens, where she explained to us the history of Versailles, from its first mentioning in the 1600s as the “land of the marshes” to the end King Louis the XVI reign when Versailles was turned over to the Radical Revolutionaries.

Versailles was originally founded by Louis XIII who used the grounds mostly for hunting purposes.  It wasn’t until the reign of Louis XIV though that Versailles was expanded and became what it is today.  And the funny thing is, Louis the XIV in the beginning didn’t even particularly like Versailles, but after realizing his financial minister had an amazing garden, the Vaux-le-Vicomte, he couldn’t stand the thought of his Financial Minster outdoing him in such a way.  So he recruited the same design team of the Vaux-le-Vicomte and ordered a garden 100 times the size.  From there it expanded into one of the most grand and beautiful gardens in all of the world, and still today it stands exceptionally apart as a perfect example of a French garden. 

Admiring the symmetry in one of the the courtyard of Versailles

Throughout our tour, our guide told us the history of Louis XIV, who ruled for the longest time in the history of European monarchy, for a total of 72 years.  The garden literally came to life through the stories of his reign to the symbolism behind each fountain we passed.  The garden was a direct reflection of his rule and accurately illustrated the idea of his complete control over even nature itself.  In fact, the king would have samples of trees taken to him, which would help him decide whether or not he wanted that specific specie of tree in his garden.  But he didn’t want just any tree, he actually had the man go dig out the exact tree he clipped the sample from and bring it to Versailles where he would have it replanted.  In all there are 2500 tree species and is today known as the perfect epitome of a French garden… (for if things were to go out of order, it could be none other than that of an English garden)… 

Wishing for an eternity to get lost in the gardens of Versailles

The garden really was simply amazing because it was just so gigantic.  When we first entered through the palace gates, we got a view of the garden, which literally expanded as far as my eyes could reach.  Leading down from the steps was the Grand Canal.  The colors of the trees were literally breathtaking, from hues of burnt orange to lime and emerald greens.  Along the pathways there are literally labyrinths of trees and hidden pathways where you can wander or stroll through and take in all the scents and beauty of this one of a kind garden.  Though a day seems like a lot of time, it literally flew by in Versailles, and before I knew it, it was already getting dark.  The garden though was so lovely and I definitely could imagine myself coming back and enjoying it perhaps in the summertime when they have fountain shows and the colors are most alive and vibrant.  Of course, the sun shining wouldn’t be too bad of a thing to add to the mix either. 

The Queen's bedroom in the Palace

But I took it for what it was, and I decided to peruse the palace before they closed and before I had to catch the train back to Paris.  I met a girl from Australia during the garden tour so we decided to check out the palace together (Did I mention she actually got to see Steve Irwin, The Crocodile Hunter when she was little… who just so happened to be my biggest idol all through elementary school?! …  Just wanted to throw that out there).  The palace was quite wonderful, though we only got to see a few rooms because they closed it only about a ½ hour after we arrived.  The highlights though were the King’s bedroom and the Queen’s bedroom and the gold that seemed to literally cover everything from the small alarm clock to the draperies.  I couldn’t imagine trying to fall asleep in a room so lavish it literally screamed royalty.  It was sad to realize though what kind of life these people were living while 98 percent of the population was poor and miserable with their children starving to death.  But obviously, these are instances of the past and what is left now simply stands as a truly enlightening and invariably interesting emblem of the past.

Paris earned its name <3

Obviously, my experience in Paris and Versailles was quite magical to say the least, and the city literally just drew me in such a way, I had completely unexpected it.  I thought that three days would be a decent amount of time to see the sights and experience Parisian culture, but I didn’t realize how much I had been wrong.  From the Louvre to the innumerable amount of museums down every street, to the shopping, and the culture that exists everywhere within reach, its just a place I feel you’d never feel like your ready to leave.  But unfortunately, all good stories come to an end (… or do they?)… so I had to pack up my bags and Tuesday morning Jessica and I bid our hostel goodbye early in the morning to catch a plane back to Rome.  It was a difficult goodbye, but there is a part of me that almost knows I will some day have to return to this beautiful city, which definitely earned its name as the city of lights and most definitely, the city of love. 

Dust bunnies and other such things

My old apartment outside the walls

Hello all.  Hello from the other side of the world, Yes, as much as I loved Austria, I did… eventually… catch a train back to Italy.

The last few weeks here have been completely crazy, and stressful to say the least.  My living situation, which had been full of ups and downs already had reached a complete low when I found that my personal space had once again been the victim of thievery and other such lack of boundaries.  For respect to all parties involved, I will refrain from providing other such details other than those, but I think the point was made the situation had made me generally unhappy.  So, at ten pm that night, the 9^th of November, I literally packed up all my belongings and left them waiting at the door to leave first thing in the morning.  And, luckily, the morning arrived only a few hours later, and gone like the wind I was.  Far away… well far enough away that I no longer had to lose any sleep or use up any more Kleenex boxes.  A friend took me in and fed me, and for a moment I almost could sympathize with all those little lost puppies that wander the streets and are taken in by a kind heart.  It may sound odd, but I don’t know how else to explain the feeling when you are sitting on a curbside with your suitcase and bags and your chin resting in your hands, watching the people of Viterbo meander by with questions filing their heads.  I was probably the victim of several assumptions, but this really is beside the point. 

View from my friend's apartment inside the walls

But, luckily, the feeling of a little lost puppy dog didn’t last long.  Though still feeling a little lost and far away from home, tossed around, and perhaps somewhat forgotten, I at least have a place to sleep.  After lugging my suitcases across town once again to my new permanent home yesterday, I oddly feel no less settled in than I did a few days ago.  I feel like my stuff doesn’t belong here… and consequently, I don’t really feel like I belong here either.  But, I will try and refrain from being too terribly negative… I am leaving to Paris, France with my friend tomorrow.  I think I almost in denial still that I am leaving, and I don’t think I’m quite ready either.  It probably won’t hit me until my feet actually land on French soil, so I guess I just need a day for an adjustment in perspective.

I also really want to share my experience at the olive tree farm on the 9^th.  We went with my cuisine class and we got to learn how they harvest and prepare olives for olive oil.  We literally got to see the entire process: from their harvest, to their canning.  I even got to take home some olive oil for myself!  It’s crazy, because the olive oil tastes nothing like it does at home, it’s like it’s a completely different thing.  Apparently, my professor tried even the best olive oils in America but none of them fit the bill… at all.  Though I see where he is coming from, it’s still a bit difficult for me to say that I prefer the olive oil here over the one at home.  I’m just not used to it, from the green color to its extreme acidic qualities. 

My new apartment

Anyways, I hope I can get up a post about my olive harvesting experience before I leave on my trip tomorrow to Paris. And to explain the dust bunnies… they are perhaps the only things that have welcomed my arrival in this new apartment.  By their lovely perfume and distinct aromatic qualities, I can definitely tell they are not disappointed.  Just don’t mention to them the washing machine that awaits them down the hall…

Finding My Home Away From Home in Innsbruck, Austria

My last three days in Austria, (and first four days, respectively) seemed to fly by.  I wanted to swallow up every moment and never let any of it go.  We had a plethora of things we could do in those three days so I really didn’t know where to begin.  And neither was I aware at how quickly time really does pass you when you least want it to. 

From the top of the Hafelekar Mountain.  What a view!

But talking of time and its passing really isn’t going to get anybody anywhere so let me continue on in sharing the activities that Jessica and I found ourselves busying ourselves with.  We began our explorations with our Innsbruck card on Saturday early in the morning.  My Uncle Toni took us to the Innsbrucker Nordkettenbahnen, which is a cable car that brings you up to the very top of the Hafelekar Mountain.  The Nordkettenbahnen was just a five minute walk down the road from my Uncle’s house and is actually one of the several lifts and cable cars around valley that host amazing views of the Alps and lifts seasoned skiers up to the best slopes in the world come winter time.  But we were there solely for the wonderful view the ride afforded us, and by no means was it a disappointment.  We actually transferred to two different cable cars that finally took us to the top of the mountain, where we got an amazing view of the city and the surrounding Alps, not to mention the frigid cold temperatures and piles of snow.  But who’s to complain when I’ve been listening to Christmas music for the past 2 weeks? 

Just chillin'

After taking the lift we walked over to the tram also right by my Uncles house that takes you to across the Inn River and into Innsbruck.  But there’s a stop on the way that drops you right off at Innsbruck’s Alpine Zoo or Alpenzoo, so we decided to check it out first.  Honestly, I’m not a fan of zoos but this one really impressed me.  First of all, I loved how it stuck to the Alpine theme, which is a habitat obviously true to the majority of Austria.  We were able to see everything from brown bears and beavers to wild boars and bison.  Of course, you can’t forget the petting zoo complete with sheep, goats and chickens at the end of the tour that seems to always bring out the little kid in me.  I really loved the few hours we spent there though because it also afforded us a peaceful walk along the tree-lined paths that were accented with the colors of the changing leaves and crisp fall air.  And to be in the company of young families with children that sprtized past me every few moments, it just put that extra sparkle in my day that couldn’t have been completed in any other way. 

Old Town, with the famous Goldenes Dachl (Golden Roof)

After the Alpenzoo we made our way into town, admiring our surroundings and taking in everything from the colors and sounds to the perfectly clear mountain air.  Our wandering brought us to the center of town, where we explored both Old Town and New Town, sections of the city with wide meandering streets lined with shops covered in windows showing off all the newest merchandise.  Oftentimes we found ourselves trying out pastries and freshly baked treats from nearby bakeries, with our noses unexpectedly guiding us.  I’d say that much of our time was unfortunately spent trying out treats at local bakeries or trying out some authentic Austrian food at the local restaurants but I just can’t say that this mistake was exactly unfortunate.  There was nothing unfortunate about the fact that finally after two months I was able to try pastries that weren’t dried out or bread that wasn’t flavorless.  Oh man, that sounds a little harsh… but I don’t know… I’m not going to lie.  Italy is famous for their pastas, not their pastries. 

Pasteries in Austria... and how they smell so good!

When we weren’t guided around town by the wonderful smells that lingered at just about every street corner we either were shopping around at some local stores or just observing the locals go about their everyday business.  I loved seeing everybody all bundled up and comfy and cozy against the cool and frigid weather.  And more than that, I loved the general style of dress.  I knew Europeans are known to dress nicer than Americans, but I didn’t exactly know how much the style differs from country to country.  It was refreshing to see people dressed nicely in a different way than you see in Italy.  Instead of high top tennis shoes, tight jeans, and name brand sweaters and shirts, people were instead wearing plaids, pea coats, and fancy hats.  I guess the style was overall more modern, traditional, and quite a bit more modest.  Honestly I was drawn in a lot more… and can I mention how much I absolutely adored every single person that walked by that was dressed in their traditional Austrian attire? Several of the men especially, young and old, were wearing their traditional folkware, or Lederhosen, which are knee length trousers worn with rustic shoes and wool socks.  Most people wouldn’t agree that this is something you would want wear to turn heads… so I must be the exception. I just couldn’t stop looking- they were just so darn cute!

I had to go along with it so I ended up purchasing a boiled wool coat, a popular piece of attire in Austria, and several of which I have seen at my Oma’s house back in Sun Valley.  It was perfectly comfy, wonderfully warm and I was excited to wear something so representative of my family’s heritage.  I ended up talking to the lady for quite some time too who sold me the sweater, which helped me come to the conclusion that people here are so much more open to conversation and friendlier overall.  At the end of our conversation she even sent me with a big bag of chocolates free of charge, which would have otherwise been 5 Euro.   This lady though was only one of the several people that welcomed Jessica and I to Austria with warm smiles and friendly conversations.  It was something different to get used to because people in Italy overall seem to keep to themselves and don’t really smile as much… as weird as it sounds.  Though they did speak a lot more English in Austria, I definitely could still point it out as a drastic social difference between the two countries. 

The famous entrance of Swarovski

On Sunday Jessica and I decided to visit the Swarovski Kristallwelten, a location dedicated to Swarovski, a famous brand that sells Crystals worldwide. I have even used several of their products when I make jewelry at home, so I was definitely really excited to see where it all came from.  Though I was expecting a museum like atmosphere, I was pleasantly surprised when it turned out to be everything but that.  I guess I’ll first sum it up with the phrase on the front of the brochure: “Moments of wonder.  For just a moment, believe in magic.”  And I’m glad to report, the day was filled with several moments where in fact I not only believed in magic, but felt it as I passed through all the exotic and quirky displays throughout the tour. 

The first one was most intriguing, called the Mechanical Theatre, by Jim Whitings.  When you first walk in you hear an odd symphony of music with sounds of clinking and suddenly you see blouses on hangers whiz by on the ceiling.  Then in a sequence of events, there is a mechanical woman that begins walking the circumference of the center of the room with a man in the center with his body parts being vicariously separated.  Then in the corner of the room a table starts to spin with two men laughing and the wall adjacent to them begins a show with three pairs of legs with suit bottoms and belts doing weird movements with their legs to the music.  I just kind of stood and watched it all… slightly in awe, and slightly confused.  The whole room in the pamphlet was considered a “bizarre fashion show” and it said the experience was supposed to pose a simple question: “just how mechanic is real life?”  Not sure if that’s exactly what I was pondering as I watched the odd sequence of events unfold before me, but as it goes, it was interesting nonetheless.

A couple wanders through the Ice Passage

From there I went through several rooms that each told their own story in the various arrays of interesting sculptures and light displays.  One stop was the Crystal dome which was like stepping into a gigantic crystal with reflections that refracted off 595 mirrors that surrounded above, below, and around you.  It was cool to see all the light change to your movement and was definitely a different experience in an of itself.   One of my favorites though was the Ice Passage that was a hallway lined with clear glass full of crystals.  But the cool part was the floor was that it was sensitive to your movement.  With every footstep you would hear an eerie crackling and clinking sound as the floor lit up with a trail of crystals that follow your every footstep.  I again was transformed into a little kid as I ran back and forth and just watched the interesting display of crystals form behind me.  It did make me miss my little sisters a lot, as I would have loved to see their reaction running through the this hallway dedicated to the “wonder of illusion.”

Though walking through the galleries, crystal forests, and rooms dedicated to puzzles and the collisions of nature and technology, I’d have to say, my favorite moments were spent just observing the landscape and my surroundings when I sat and wrote at a little park that sprawls out a few acres behind the gallery location.  It is called the Giant’s Park and was complete with a sweet little playground, a labyrinth hedge, small waterfalls, and fields of grass that sprawled out into the surrounding hillsides.  I’ll share a few words that I scribbled down as I observed my surroundings, I suppose it might spice up the image a little bit more.

View of the park from where I sat

I could literally just stand here forever and watch the world go by.  The colors, the smiles, the children.  The smell of fall lingering in the air.  Families everywhere- laughing, playing, taking pictures.  And the grass, so green, so never-ending, and rolling into the hills, the mountains so close to they sky they can almost taste the clouds on their snow capped tongues.  Then the cackling of the leaves, the trickling of the nearby water, and mothers lulling by with strollers, with the slight breeze sending an occasional chill in the air.  Then there is the feeling of fall in the air, the sounds of crunching leaves, and the footsteps pondering movement against the winding cobblestone paths.  There is a playground as bold and colorful as the scenery surrounding with children bundled in their winter attire.  Mittens, cotton scarves, goose down coats.  Luckily the sun peeks through just enough and has yet to set.  The day has not yet escaped us. 

If you find the skyline with your eyes, immediately you will catch a painting in the sky.  Pastels, colors so bold and so natural you almost begin to think you’ve once seen the world form black and white.  Scattered between and yonder the hillsides tucked against the mountainsides you will find chestnut colored rooftops, a stark contrast against the white walls that encase what I suppose would be a comfortable and cozy home.  And if possible, you can look even closer.  There are sheep, woolen warm, reminding me of the paintings from my grandfather.  They wonder the hillsides and in complete contentment, they graze, fond of their home and free of the need to ever escape and explore the only world they’ll ever know.  Soon their master calls them in and I see one by one, them sauntering back for perhaps their evening meal. 

Another section of the park at Swarovski

For a moment, I almost thought I was there with them, until my eyes find a scattering of donkeys following the fence lines.  I almost reached down to grab them a snack, only finding a stone rock below me.  But just before I am disappointed in the realization of my location, children run by, little pockets of innocence against this world that I’ve learned can so easily be cruel.  But hardly do they know as they sprinkle their footsteps against the meadow, chasing the moments as they come.  Their laughter blends into the fall air, their language accenting their laughter and the occasional sparkle in their mother’s eyes. 

I never want to leave this beautiful country that after so long I’d never had the privilege to meet.  The smiles, the slow pace, the open and inviting skies.  The towering mountains that make you feel like you’re at home before you enter it.  And the way that something inside you tells you to never leave, no matter the fact that the corner of your train ticket to return home ashamedly peeks out of your coat pocket.  Nevermind that, nevermind reality.  And nevermind that awkward feeling that feels almost like pain the moment you feel that this place could have so easily been stolen from your complete consciousness.  Nevermind it all, because you are here now, and nothing can steal away that moment.  That small moment that sparkles against the collage of moments that we so label as this journey, these adventures, and this sequence of events we so easily and simply call life.

View of the city from the Stadturm

Monday was Jessica and I’s last day in Austria… and obviously, you can gather I wasn’t exactly excited about the fact (as I sit here crossing my fingers that some day soon I will visit again in the company of my mother and sister).  Anyhow, our last day began with a healthy and hardy breakfast prepared by my Aunt and Uncle full of whole gain oats and fruit which once again started our day with a good foot forward.  My Uncle walked us into town once again where he took us to the information center so we could get our ticket to climb the Stadtturm, or Clock tower.  The Tower was actually a 15^th century tower that was used to house a prison and today it used to offer people a wonderful 360 degree view of the surrounding city.  It sort of reminded me of the Duomo in Florence, but obviously the tower wasn’t as tall, and as far as numbers go, it had about ½ as many steps to get to the top.  But nonetheless it was quite wonderful, and I loved seeing the colors of the houses and surroundings buildings that almost glistened in the sunlight.  To put the colors into words, I’d have to describe them as rich and oceanic, somewhat spring like, and for the abstract terminology: delightful.  Almost like toned down birthday colors, earthlike, from turquoise and orange cream to sea foam and coral pink. It was refreshing change of scenery when compared to the more solemn and earth toned colors of Italy. I just loved how the colors themselves so easily brought the surroundings mountains to life, and how they made the already ice blue water of the Inn River look even moreso crisp and frigid.  Moments like these made me wish I could whip out some pastels and a paintbrush, despite my somewhat lacking talent in the art department.

Fried potatoes, spinach and egg! Yummy!

Scattered between the days occurrences we frequented several restaurants and bakeries.  My Uncle treated us to a small hut behind the house a little ways up the mountain where Jessica tried Knödeln (one of my favorite dishes from my grandmother, basically dumplings) and I had some schnitzel (another of my favorites, breaded and fried chicken) with a side of potatoes and a salad.  It was so wonderful for the first time in what seemed like forever to sit down and eat some food with some real substance.  I can see why Italy gets its name for food but there’s something so hardy and sustaining about the Austrian cuisine.  There’s meat and potatoes and vegetables… and the best part of all… you can eat it all from the convenience of one plate!  It was nice looking at the menu not having to pick through every option, because frankly, everything looked so delicious.  I didn’t have to worry about ordering a dish with some eerie squid or octopus legs, anchovies, or capers.  Trust me, it was a nice relief.

Neighbors of my mom's family in Innsbruck

The last day my Aunt and Uncle took us to Münster, a small town right outside of Innsbruck where my Oma and Opa lived and my mom spent a few years growing up.  It was a wonderful walk surrounded by countryside and small town homes with yards and gardens sprawling up every which way.  Each home was so authentic and so unique it almost sent shivers up my spine thinking about the cookie cutter homes and subdivisions back at home in America.  We walked around a bit until we found my moms old house, which was tucked in quietly beneath the cover of some nearby trees and nearby homes.  It was hard to get a good view, but it was wonderful to see the home that obviously lent some great memories for my mom in her growing up years and is so much a part of who she is today.  We walked around a bit more until my Aunt and Uncle knocked on the door of the neighbors, which were good friends of my Oma and Opa.  As soon as the older man, Rupert, that answered the door heard the last name, Kronawatter, his face sort of lit up with a soft realization of a friendship so long ago sewn it perhaps once had the potential of becoming lost. 

Front view of my moms old house (in the center)

He right away invited us inside and I watched and listened to their conversations in German and they rekindled old memories which brought about many warm smiles and laughter.  They were a friendly older couple and I could tell they were some of the happiest people I had ever met.  From the way his turquoise sweater was halfway unbuttoned to his modest smile, and the way his wife folded her hands softly in her lap, I knew this was a different kind of happiness that many people have forgotten how live, if indeed they have known it to ever exist.  From ½ way finished crossword puzzles to family photos adorning the walls, I once again began to fit a few pieces of the puzzle together.  Some pieces about happiness, the meaning of life, the importance of family, and the strength of love and its potential to last two people forever.

From there, we fit in one last stop before we had to drive back to Innsbruck to catch our train at 1:30 pm.  We stopped in Rattenberg, one of the oldest towns in Austria with almost every building either dedicated to glass making or glass selling, if not both.  Each shop window was full of beautiful glass structures, from Christmas ornaments and glass flowers to flower vases and delicate plates.  Some shops even had entire rooms dedicated to Christmas, with festive music, decorated trees and beautiful glass ornaments of every color hanging on each wall.  The few minutes we had there rushed by and I so bad wished I had time to spare but a train to catch is, alas, a train to catch.  So we made our way through town admiring what we could with again the spark of hope and the inkling of a promise that I’d once again return here soon.

Danke Uncle Toni, Aunt Gucki, and cousin Nino!

Overall, I loved my time in Innsbruck and I once again want to thank my Uncle Toni, Aunt Gucki, and Cousin Nino for letting us stay with them in their home.  It was more than wonderful to be able to stay with my family, and it was nice to once again enjoy the simple things, like gathering around the table and snacking on oven roasted chestnuts.  You can come up with a list of tourist attractions and things to do, but no matter what, its always moments like these that top the rest of them.  Though I’d have to say this was one of the best weeks thus far in my study abroad experience, it was hard having that feeling of homesickness that followed. I guess seeing Austria for the first time after hearing about it sense I was little was just so beautiful of an experience, it was hard to do it without my mom beside me.   But luckily, life is painted with a plethora of opportunities to conquer your dreams, and so it be my dream to return, so it be.  And though my mom might not say it right away, her eyes sparkle every time she tells you of her childhood in Austria, and as a person with a world of dreams, I know this one is especially one that wont’ go unrealized, especially for someone as special to me as my mother. 

So, your turn.  Ponder this for a moment, you have the time.

                                     … What’s your dream?

and more than that, what are you going to do to help you reach it?  And last but not least, how?

Well, goodluck. J All for now.  Auf Wiedersehen!

Arrival in the Beautiful Country of Austria

On the train to Innsbruck... finally!

Jessica and I are happy to report that we arrived safe and sound yesterday night a little before midnight in Innsbruck, Austria.  Our expensive train tickets paid themselves off in the fun we afforded ourselves singing and dancing in empty train cars against the dark night skies passing over the border from Italy to Austria.   Trust me, those few moments of realizations that we had missed the train had been painful, but what’s done is done.  We agreed that everybody needs their crazy travel story, where things go wrong and trains are missed, so we just got one more thing checked off of our list I guess.

It was hard to get a true sense of the town yesterday when the city was asleep beneath heavy clouds of fog and the weight of thick cold air… not to mention the fact it was dark.  It didn’t matter too much though because we were just happy to finally be in Austria.  My cousin, Nino, met us at the train station where we shared some happy greetings and friendly hugs. He drove us to their home, which was a little ways up in the mountains snugged up in an inlet of trees and nearby homes.  It was really comforting to know we had a warm and comfy place to stay for the night.  And we definitely slept well, after having woken up at 4am and running around catching trains all day.

The Alps tower up from behind some thinning layers of fog.

Today my Uncle gave us each an Innsbruck card that he purchased for both of us that gives us free transportation around the city and free entrances to museums and even some rides on the several gondolas around the city.  We were a little overwhelmed at first, so he started out by showing us a little bit around the city.  I’m horrible with directions, but surprisingly I got a pretty good handle on where everything was.  From the Inn River that runs on the edge of town to the markets and Old Town, we had several landmarks that marked our way.  We ended up deciding to use today as an exploration day to get the feel for the city so we could begin using our card tomorrow, which would last us for three days. 

I can say now that I’ve really toured around Italy and seen quite a few cities and I’ve really loved every moment and enjoyed the cities, the views and the people, but arriving here in Austria, just felt like home.  I mean, yes, I’m ½ Austrian and my mom grew up only ½ an hour away from Innsbruck, which might have something to do with it, but something about the atmosphere of the town and the people just drew me in.  It was a perfectly quiet fall day and just walking down the streets with people all cuddled up with mittens and scarves sipping on beer and watching the world go by just made you feel like you belonged there.  There was a certain softness to it, from the buildings that ran along the wide cobbled paths in bright peach and turquoise colors to the way the mountains modestly boasted themselves against the skyline.  I loved the way the hills just softly rolled into the steep mountainsides, with housetops scattered along the green countrysides covered in forests and fields of green.  I loved it, and I loved the way how everything about my Austrian grandparents started to make sense after being able to take in their heritage for simply just a day.

A lovely fall day in Austria... loving the colors!

From fried and breaded chicken schnitzel to pictures of little girls dressed in their traditional Austrian drindls, and cowbells and cuckoo clocks, I basically soaked up all I knew of the country through their small home snugged in the mountains of Sun Valley, Idaho.  But being able to actually visit Austria I really was able to understand better my grandparents, and in turn, appreciate my roots and my heritage.  Just being here I really understand the culture and way of life so much better, and everything from the decorations that adorned their home to the yummy dinners that my Oma cooks for my family, it all makes that much more sense.  Just walking around and taking in the sights, smells, and pace around me, I guess it all kind of clicked together, and all the pieces of the puzzle began to just kind of fall into place.

I am so excited to have three more days here to explore and learn about the city of Innsbruck and the country itself.  It seems we have so little time when looking at all the things we can do, but I remind myself how lucky I am to have the time that I have.  Well, I better get started with another day of adventures!

Auf Wiedersehen!

Riding the Rails

entail adventure, at least, that’s what my friend and I, Jessica, learned today.

 The plan was to arrive in Austria this afternoon, at around 4:30, if our plans went according.  But, as inexperienced travelers, riding the rails isn’t exactly our strong suit.  Let’s just put it this way, we missed two trains already and we haven’t even made it out of Rome.

It all started out this morning when we arrived in Rome and we were supposed to walk from the station Roma Ostiense to the station Roma Termini.  From looking at the itinerary, we were mistaken into thinking that the train in Ostiense labeled Termini was going to take us to our destination in Verona.  But the train literally started up and arrived (to where?) 5 minutes later, after we had set our phone alarm for three hours later, when we expected to arrive in Verona.  After someone told us to get off we began to realize that perhaps this was the wrong train.  The train literally took us 5 minutes away to Termini, the station that we were supposed to leave from in approximately five minutes to actually get to Verona.  Confusing business, but that’s just the way it goes. 

That wouldn’t usually be a problem, except for the fact Roma Termini is one of the largest railway stations in Europe, with approximately 480,000 people passing through each day, 150 million people per year year, 29 platforms, and covering about 225 square meters.  So, when that is put into account, the fact that we ran from one side of the station to the other didn’t really perturb our unfortunate and inevitable fate.  And, let me also not forget that though we were running at top speed across the train station, it didn’t help that is was in the complete wrong direction. I guess young gypsy boys aren’t the best ones to accept directions from, especially when the bring you to a train stop that you don’t realize isn’t yours until he’s gone with your last few Euro coins in his pockets.  Lessons learned… the hard way I guess.

So, after realizing we were … out of luck in catching our train to Verona, I called up my Uncle Toni who my friend Jessica and I are staying with, who has been not only kind in letting us stay with him for a few ways, but of enormous help in assisting us figuring out alternative routes.  With Verona out of the picture, he told us that the next best way to arrive in Innsbruck was to stop first in Bologna (northern Italy), then Brenner (on the border between Austria and Italy), then from there take the train to Innsbruck.  So after finally finding a ticket area that sold international tickets, we bought our tickets to Bologna, then Bologna to Brenner.  Not exactly the best feeling in the world having to pull out an additional 100 Euro after already having purchased tickets for a train that you missed.

The man that helped us purchase our tickets was very friendly, and made sure to tell us that indeed 12A was down the hall to the right.  So, down the hall to the right we went, with 12A right there, waiting for us like Christmas cookies wait for Santa on Christmas Eve.  Not hard to find, just sitting there, like it was meant for us.  Well, that’s easy enough, I thought.  So with the fact that we had about two hours until the train left we found our way to a café where we talked and snacked until we decided to head up to the station 10 minutes before we left.

It was all fine and dandy until we arrived at the station and waited for a train that we realized later never would arrive.  It took only a few moments to realize that 12A was our seat number… not our train platform.  Luckily though, our near tear experience crystalled into delight when we found out that we could exchange our tickets for a train that left only fifteen minutes later.

So, that was the excitement for the day… and it’s not even done yet.  It’s 3:23 and we are currently sitting in the train at its stop in Florence before its final stop in Bologna.  Now, all I have to do is cross my fingers that everything will go right this time.  And now that we have a few hours of experience under our belt… everything can go that much better.  Hopefully, next time you hear from me I’ll be writing to you from Innsbruck, sipping hot chocolate with nearly 8,000 foot mountains towering and glistening with snow out my window.